How to Pad Your Helm

HELMET PADDING-SUSPENSION HYBRID FOR SCA HEAVY-LIST HELMETS by Master Tearlach the Profane

Materials needed:
Leather — a strip 5 1/2″ x circumference of head at widest point. Plus 3/4″ to 1″ wide strip 40″ long, or two 20″ strips. Also two 5″ to 10″ strips. It should be supple, 4 to 6 oz. You may want to pre-treat it with spray silicone waterproofing such as “Campdry” in order to increase its longevity.

Needle and thread — Leatherworking lacing needles or darning needles (blunt point), leatherworking waxed nylon, artificial sinew, button thread or dental tape (floss)

Ground mat foam — 3/8″ to 1/2″ army type medium density Volarafoam (camping stores, Army-Navy stores, Ebay)

Flammable contact cement — Barges or Weldwood DAP, and disposable bristle brushes

Hardware — Two 1″ O or D rings or two roller buckles to fit chin strap, and two # 10 x 1/2″ screws, and nuts and washers

Drill, and 3/32″ and 3/16 drill bits

Marking pen

Shoe goo or CA cement (crazy glue, super glue)

Shoe lace or other soft cord to tie top of panels. About 1 foot, to be trimmed after tying.

Procedure:

Glue padding over the inside of helmet following directions on can. It is applied evenly and allowed to dry, then pressed into place.

Get it right first try; it is very hard to re-position. Make sure it overlaps the top front of the face opening. If in doubt, also cover this lower rim with leather. NOTE: Contact cement vapors are TOXIC and EXPLOSIVE. Best done in open air or with very good ventilation.

Measure head at widest point. Hold helmet in position and mark (guess) the location of that point. An assistant may be helpful!

Drill 3/32″ double, side by side holes in the exact front center and back center of the circumference line. Drill double holes at two equidistant points between them. These holes go through the helmet and the foam liner.

Cut the leather in a series of six evenly spaced peaks and valleys 1/6 of your head circumference each. Allow 1/2″ for seam. Cut small teardrop holes near the top of each peak for lacing them together later.

Sew the ends together. Sew front and back through helmet, then the other 4 points. If there is too much space to reach all of the points, discs of foam can be retrofitted at those points. Something to help locate the needle through the hole is helpful. I use a 14g piercing needle reversed and glued into a small handle.

Lace the top together. Try on for fit. Adjust as needed.

When the helmet fits, mark for chin strap. This should be in a line between the round back of the head and the chin. On most people this will be just below and behind the ear. Drill this point with the 3/16″ drill. (Probably want the helmet off at this point.) Drill other holes above and below these spaced evenly to allow adjustment.

Attach rings or buckles to straps to these holes with the screws and washers, and nuts on the outside.

The rings should be at the angle of the jaw. If buckles are preferred they should be where they can be reached and manipulated.

Split the long strap in the middle so the opening cups the jaw, or sew the two shorter straps to a pre-made chin cup. In the case of buckles, punch holes for the straps. If using rings, simply tie the ends tight across the faceplate using a “granny” knot.

Trim screws if they protrude. Seal the screws and the outside of each sewing point with shoe goo or CA cement.